Natalia Allerdine likes to tweet an archetype. So, what might a modern-day Marie-Antoinette wear if she could “get anywhere circa the late ’60s to swim with sea creatures and party with rock bands between picnics and business meetings?”
Well, in waking land that means “twisted jeerly” plays on sculpting: pastoral crinolines, hips structured as if to restore curves lost in the semiglottides, the new takes on its popular tendril skirts and even the iconic goose heels or pompom gladiators—and that’s just for starters.
“I was obsessed with finding something silly and fun,” the designer said via video from his London studio. She described the swan heels and flappy “fin” shoes—with crepe-shaped leather discs attached—saying, “I felt like an injection, like a toy.”
Ruffles abounded, rocking trousers, trenches, fitted column dresses and even the scantily clad French marinières. Clearly, Allurdean was having a ball pushing the proportions to the max, revisiting collegiate stripes in fat, A-line tops and back-to-front denim with billowy flares. A dash of Alpine kitsch came in red and white gingham or cow print shoes. Part heady, part punk, and all in good fun. Nevertheless, interspersed among the playfulness was some very simple, elegant braid, for example in a white eyelet, and an off-the-shoulder khaki cape and a torn black halter blouse. A crinkled white skirt, a white evening dress with a simple ruffle in the back and portrait jackets give a serious look to yourself. On that note, wake up too with a large number of half globes.
In a time where anything goes, there was something for everyone and there was plenty to choose from in this collection. With so much going on, it can be difficult to put together a clear message. 77 In hindsight, this lineup could do with drastic modification. But perhaps on the other hand that’s the whole point of Allerdeen: you can have your cake and eat it too.
