Bertelli: Unlike most of the industry, in our group, the runway is always hands-on with the factory. From day one, our approach has been that design and production are inseparable. When you talk to managers at other companies, factories can feel like a distant world, an abstraction that doesn’t fall under their responsibility. This disconnect has contributed to many of the issues making headlines today. For us, it’s about culture and heritage. From day one, my father believed in owning factories. The story of my parents embodies this approach: my mother, Meusia, devoted herself to design, while my father, Patrizio, focused on factories.
This philosophy runs through our entire organization. It’s in our culture. In our Milan offices, business is never discussed without considering factories, production processes and their wider impact. Many companies simply do not take this approach. Over the years, we have already overcome many challenges that are now creating problems elsewhere, not because we were inherently smart, but because we dealt with them early. At the time, some even questioned why we would operate on such a labor-intensive, expensive route when it would be easier to outsource production and focus on higher margins. This is an ongoing commitment. Regular inspections, supplier audits, and direct engagement with our factories are constant requirements. But in our experience, there are no shortcuts: understanding your production and being hands-on at every level is the only way to protect quality, ensure ethical practices and maintain the integrity of the Italy label. That has been our approach from the beginning.
Vogue: What takes advantage of ‘Made in Italy’ protection and allows its story of excellence to resonate with authenticity?
Andrea Guerra: When made in Italy, we remain incredibly strong. Italy’s problem is not “Made in”, not our manufacturing, nor our ability to innovate. The real issue is selling our strong points, being able to tell a story, do marketing, engage customers and run stores around the world. Italian companies have always been exceptional at making things, but unfortunately, not so exceptional at selling them.
