“We’ve actually put the most pressure on ourselves,” Sirhat Ike and Benjamin Housby humbly noted minutes before their show began. GmbH has always had a political bent, but they also allow themselves the freedom to sometimes “just” beautify.
“In winter 2023, we called our collection ‘Untitled’ and it was all about pink and bows. It’s an honor, no question. But now? We can’t be silent. As soon as you step outside, you have to face reality. Next to him was Hosby, wearing a T-shirt with the words “Friedensungst” printed on it. “Fear of peace” is a wonderful paraphrase of the German financial press. is used by many shareholders in the defense industry to describe the concerns of many shareholders when international peace agreements expire and share prices fall as a result.
In what is perhaps the most challenging moment in global politics since the founding of GmbH, the two designers are sticking to a tried and tested principle: finding beauty in dark times. It meant a return to the Berlin club culture of the 1980s, when the capital was truly a wild place of freedom. While his focus was rediscovering his fashion origins, teasing body-shaped silhouettes or repurposing silhouettes to be more powerful, the collection had some soft surprises. Very flowing pants with wraparound fabric panels, a little peplum on the jacket, and a gently faux fur coat added a touch of delicacy to the runway. Their famous thigh-high square-toe boots with front zippers, boxer-waistbanded trousers, and modular pieces such as faux fur collars and scarves contrasted.
All in all, a rough-and-tumble look at the decades of Berlin and the last decade of GmbH. So, will we see a stylistic new beginning for their 10th anniversary show this summer? It will be decided by the political situation. In fact, the greatest amount of pressure on IşIK and Husby actually comes from the industry because of who they are. “We know that we are doing politics as Muslim immigrants or children of Muslim immigrants. We also want to talk about it. That’s why we founded Atam BH,” he added, seriousness in his voice and a smile in his eyes. “And if it was ever going to cause us to be taken down, so be it.”
