This season, Meruert Tolegen kept things intimate, cleaning out his Soho boutique for a moody presentation. As the models slowly walked across the raised platforms, dark washed walls, dim lighting, and violinist Tessia Lusmakova’s performance of Mozart’s “Lacrimosa” and Bach’s “Deconstructed” version. Part No. 2 Minority in D served to add to the mystery. Overhead lights were bent over drapes as guests circled the edges of the room, heading for the shadows.
There was intimacy in the details of the collection as well. While many silhouettes, like 18th-century panniers, returned from his previous runway collection, Tolijan found ways to give them minute changes that felt sensible. For example, a corseted dress with swaying hips was paired with a cropped jacket made of synthetic hair braids and looked luxurious under the twinkling lights – a somewhat welcome contrast to last season’s flimsiness.
A more relaxed look follows a similar path. Casual clothing took on a strong look, as in the knitted sweater and bow blouse. Meanwhile, wool herringbone pieces, like a faux fur-trimmed jacket, brought essential weight. Former CFDA/Vogue The Fashion Fund finalist is finding her groove.
