Where to Eat, Stay, and Explore

Located about 30 minutes from Florence by high-speed train, Bologna is an equally charming destination for a trip to Italy. With a remarkable culinary history dating back to the Middle Ages, it’s home to some of the world’s best-loved dishes to thank, including Lasagna alla Bolognesetortellini, and ragù.

The northern Italian city is also home to the oldest university in the Western world, and has a music scene so rich that it was named a UNESCO City of Creative Music. I visited recently and was struck by its seamless blend of old and new: a college community gathered in a pop-music bar just steps from a sixth-century Gothic basilica. Food vendors enticed shoppers with crates adorned with crystal slices of Parmigiano and tiny tortellini shells. Nearby, large groups sat around communal tables enjoying themselves. Aperitivo of sparkling spritzes

My tour guide, Catia Aliberti, brought the city’s rich history and personality to life during my three-day stay. He said that the cultural tradition of Bologna is reliable. “Sharing food with friends and acquaintances is a much-awaited moment of the day. It can be at home or in the streets of the city, in the markets or job (boxes).”

This social atmosphere is evident on any given day in Bologna—a city you could easily visit alone, as I did, with its ornate porticos and terra cotta-colored squares buzzing with people looking for the next bar or concert. “Culture and the arts are part of the city’s identity, just like all the fresh and local food that represents our best quality of life,” Alberti added.

Read on for how to make the best of Bologna.

Best times to visit

To beat the peak season prices and crowds, consider visiting Bologna from September to October or April to May. When it comes to weather, it can be a city of extremes, with hot summer temperatures and humid winters. Choose spring or fall to enjoy the city’s best markets and piazzas.

Best things to do

To better understand how to discover Bologna, check out its many nicknames: La Dota (The Learned One, for its university), La Grassa (The Fat One, for its world-famous cuisine), and La Rossa (The Red One, for its terra cotta roofs). There are public spaces to interact and experience all three. Start with the most famous: Piazza Maggiore, a central square that usually serves as a meeting place for visitors and residents. The bustling center is home to the Basilica di San Petronio, a magnificent church with a facade that was never completed due to lack of funds. Inside, you’ll find walls and the world’s longest sundial, placed in 1656 by the famous Italian astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini. At Piazza Maggiore, climb the Torre dell’Orologio, a 15th-century clock tower equipped with two terraces that offer panoramic views of the city and the hills in the distance. Also on the piazza is the Salabursa Library, a beautiful public space where you can see ancient Roman ruins through a glass floor.

Bologna’s intricate porticos are an integral part of the city’s architectural heritage and identity. Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021, these ancient arcades provide shade while covering the walkways. Plan a visit to the Portico di San Luca, the oldest wooden iteration on Via Marsala, and the longest covered walkway in the world, with an impressive 666 arches.

The city also celebrates the power of cinema, and film lovers shouldn’t miss the Cineteca di Bologna, a film restoration and preservation center that houses more than 18,000 international films. In summer, Piazza Maggiore lights up with the biggest open-air film screening in Europe, called Sotto le Stelle del Cinema. Past participants include Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford Coppola, Jane Campion, and John Landis.

Bologna’s location in Emilia-Romagna also makes it a great day trip home. During my visit, I drove an hour from Bologna to Modena, a UNESCO World Heritage city and medieval walled city that first piqued my interest for its pristine scenery. Modena is also known as the largest producer of balsamic vinegar in the world. Called “black gold” because of its dark appearance, its highly concentrated flavor, and the complex process used to make it, this vinegar is celebrated with a full tour and tasting at the Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale in Spilamberto. In Modena’s city center, find food vendors at Mercato Albinelli, and sit down anywhere with a menu offering regional specialties: Tortellini en brodo (Pasta pockets filled with ricotta and submerged in a rich chicken broth). Or, you can plan ahead and try to land a coveted reservation at Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, a three-Michelin-star restaurant called one of the best in Italy.

Best places to eat.

Bolognese sauce was born here, and there are places all around town to try the aromatic, slow-cooked meat sauce. Sfoglia Rina is one of the most popular options, and the daily line out the door doesn’t stop residents and visitors from waiting patiently. tagliatelle al ragù And lasagna green. gave A Bolognese twist on this classic dish features a creamy béchamel sauce (instead of mozzarella and ricotta) layered with slow-cooked ragout between green spinach pasta shells.

I had my first dish at Noi, located in Mercato delle Erbi, Bologna’s largest covered market. The food hall is home to a number of delis, pizzerias, restaurants, and bars worth visiting, but it would be a mistake not to make a special stop for Noi’s lasagna—a bubbly, picture-perfect combination of flavor and fresh ingredients. Noi is also a great place to try one of Bologna’s most beloved antipasto pairings: fried, lightly salted dough pillows. Tiggleand tangy, soft squacrone cheese.

Passing through Piazza Maggiore, head down a small street to reach the family-owned Trattoria Da Me nella Torre, located inside the medieval Torre Galluzzi tower and run by chef Elisa Rosconi. In addition to its impressive location, the menu included handmade pasta, a slow-cooked egg appetizer served in Parmesan meringue, and a memorable gratin of potato gnocchi filled with ricotta, tomato puree, and marjoram emulsion. The restaurant opened in 2024 with much fanfare, as its sister restaurant, Trattoria Da Me, is a city institution, offering a modern take on traditional Bolognese cuisine without losing its rustic history.

For more variety, make your way to the nearby shady streets of Bologna’s oldest market—the Quadrilatero—and neighborhood wine bars like Osteria del Sole, the city’s oldest watering hole.

Enoteca Storica Faccioli is another good option, especially for its impressive selection of natural wines and the cured meats that make Emilia-Romagna so famous. Stop on either side Salumeria For a cut of Bologna’s own peppery mortadella — prized for having a Protected Geographical Indication. “The geographical position of the Emilia-Romagna region has favored the confluence of peoples and cultures for centuries,” explained Alberti. “Our economy, based primarily on agriculture and animal husbandry in past centuries, has encouraged the development of excellent products that have been transformed and enriched by the delicious recipes and imagination of chefs at the time.”

Best places to stay

During my stay, I checked into the Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni, a former 18th-century archdiocesan palace. A member of the prestigious Hotels of the World, this luxury property is located within walking distance of all the city’s major sites, including Piazza Maggiore. Design touches include centuries-old frescoes and gilded antique furniture, giving the space an air of nobility.

Some of the 106 rooms have windows decorated with silk curtains, Murano chandeliers and ceilings. The property’s restaurant, I Carracci, serves traditional Bolognese cuisine in a frescoed room.

For proximity to major train stations, consider AC Hotel Bologna, a Marriott property with sleek, contemporary rooms, some offering city views. If you’re looking for a more residential experience that taps into the city’s communal spirit, book an apartment with the Homes & Villas by Marriott Bonvoy, close to the heart of university life, including historic sites and the city’s biggest landmarks.

Also located in the heart of the city on a quiet street, Hotel d’Oro has a luxury boutique feel with just 40 rooms featuring marble bathrooms, stucco work, and vintage Italian furniture. Enjoy the quiet lounge areas and take advantage of the electric bikes available for guests to get around the city.