Theodore Roosevelt National Park Travel Guide

In a 1910 speech at Fargo, Theodore Roosevelt said, “I would never have been president had it not been for my experiences in North Dakota.”

During his lifetime, the 26th President of the United States regularly split his time between New York State and the rugged badlands of North Dakota. His experiences here helped fuel his passion for the outdoors and conservation, leading him to use his presidential influence to establish the United States Forest Service, 150 national forests, and five national parks. Today, visitors can explore the wilderness that inspired them and the former president’s legacy in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, one of America’s most underrated national parks.

Unlike some of the more popular national parks in the West, it feels like a well-kept secret. There are no endless lines of cars or shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. Instead, the moment you step through the entrance, you’re greeted by wide-open skies, wind-carved canyons, and—if you’re lucky—a bison or wild horse crossing your path.

“Maybe that’s why this park is such a profoundly transformative place for all who visit, as it was for our nation’s ‘conservation president,'” says Kim Schmidt, communications manager at the North Dakota Department of Commerce.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Know before you go.

Here’s the first thing to know: This park is refreshingly easy on logistics. The gates never close, so you can drive at sunrise, stargaze after midnight, or even go in winter if you’re brave enough. Entry fee is $30 per vehicle, valid for one full week in all three park units, or $55 for an annual pass. If you’re traveling to more than one park this year, it’s worth picking up the $80 America the Beautiful Pass, which covers every U.S. national park.

Because North Dakota winters can be brutal, keep in mind that while the park itself is open 24/7, some visitor centers, roads and campgrounds may close or operate reduced hours during the snowy months. The official website of the park gives you the latest information. As in most national parks, pets are allowed, but not on the trails. So, if you’re traveling with a dog, plan scenic drives and roadside views instead of backcountry adventures.

And finally—don’t count on finding a coffee shop once you’re inside the park. It’s wild country, and part of its charm is the absence of modern amenities. Before heading in, fill up your cooler, pack snacks and top up your gas tank for Midora (located near the park’s south entrance) or the north entrance in Watford City.

Best time to visit

Every season is unique in this national park. In late spring, the badlands are transformed with green grass and blooming wildflowers, perfect for photographers and nature lovers. Summer is the busiest time, with ranger programs, open campgrounds, and reliably warm weather, although it can be hot and muggy in July.

Fall is when the park really bursts into color. Golden cottonwoods line the banks of the Little Missouri River, and you might catch elk bugling across the mountains. Winter shrouds the park in stark white, and snowfall may limit your access, but if you bundle up, the silence and solitude are unforgettable.

If you’re aiming for the sweet spot, late May through June and early September through early October offer the ideal balance of mild weather, active wildlife, and thin crowds—though, in general, you’ll find fewer crowds because it’s one of the least-visited national parks in the system.

How to get there

The closest airport to Theodore Roosevelt National Park is Dickinson Theodore Roosevelt Regional Airport (DIK), located near Medora. You can find more flight options from larger airports such as Bismarck Airport (BIS) in Bismarck, North Dakota, about 137 miles away, or Billings Logan International Airport (BIL), in Montana, 283 miles away. If you’re flying in, you’ll need to rent a car to get around the area.

Covering more than 70,000 acres, the park is divided into three areas for visitors to explore: the North Unit, the South Unit, and the Elkhorn Ranch Unit.

“To get a truly immersive experience, we encourage you to extend your stay and explore all three units,” Schmidt says. “But whichever unit you choose, plan ahead for lodging, fuel and food, as services stop dramatically once you pass the entrance.”

South Unit

This is the most popular and easiest section of the park to reach. It is located off Interstate 94 near Medora, a charming western town that serves as the park’s gateway. It’s also where you’ll find the main visitor center and behind it the restored Maltese Cross Cabin, where Roosevelt stayed before building Elkhorn Ranch. The South Unit’s 36-mile scenic loop drive takes in the park’s greatest hits, all without ever getting out of your car.

North Unit

The North Unit is located about 70 miles north of the South Unit, and feels wilder and less traveled. It has a 14-mile scenic drive that includes views of the Little Missouri River with less crowds, making it a favorite among solitude seekers.

Elkhorn Ranch Unit

Between the two, it is the most remote and the smallest of the park’s three units. Here you’ll find the site of Roosevelt’s Elkhorn Ranch, where stone foundations are all that remain of the former president’s home. To reach it, you’ll need to navigate gravel roads and plan for limited amenities.

Best things to do

Not everyone comes to the park to log trail miles, and the good news is that even if you never lace up your hiking boots, there’s plenty to do.

Ranger-led programs

During the summer, the park hosts a roster of ranger-led talks, guided walks, and evening programs that bring the landscape to life with insights into history, geology, and wildlife. Some nights, you may even find yourself lying on a blanket while an astronomer points out the constellations above.

Wildlife Spotting

Because Theodore Roosevelt National Park is sparsely populated, it is one of the best national parks in the Midwest for wildlife encounters. Bison roam freely, wild horses graze the mountains, and entire prairie dog towns populate the roadside. A good pair of binoculars is a must for this park.

Scenic drives

Both the North and South units have scenic drives that cover some of the most spectacular scenery in the North Dakota Badlands. The 36-mile scenic drive in the South Unit is the park’s most popular option, and features scenery filled with pronghorn, prairie dogs and golden eagles. The North Unit Scenic Drive, on the other hand, is only 14 miles long but runs along the Little Missouri River. But the beauty of both drives is that you can experience some of the park’s best views without hiking—just pull up, take in the view, and continue at your own pace.

Horse riding and mountain biking

“The park connects to the Mah-Dah-Hi Trail, a legendary 144-mile trail for long-distance bikers and horseback riders,” Schmidt says. “It offers an immersive, non-motorized singletrack experience in the heart of North Dakota’s badlands.” But even if you don’t want to tackle the whole thing, you can take in small sections within the park, which still give you a good taste of the adventure that the region is known for.

The best hikes

Of course, if you want to stretch your legs, the park has miles of scenic trails that vary in length and difficulty. Here are a few that stand out.

Wind Canyon Trail

This 0.4-mile stroll is full of dramatic views, taking you along wind-swept cliffs that overlook the Little Missouri River. It is especially magical at sunset when the sky and valley walls glow with warm hues. If you plan to go for sunset, be sure to leave early because after the sun goes down, the trail gets dark quickly, and there is no light.

Painted Valley Nature Trail

This one-mile trail is conveniently located just off I-94 and takes you right into the heart of the Badlands. Walking through the colorful, striated geological layers feels like stepping inside a giant painting created by nature. Be sure to stop at the Painted Canyon Visitor Center first to get a bird’s-eye view of the land and then hike down for a closer look.

Petrified Forest Trail

This 10.3-mile loop takes you through America’s largest petrified forest, where ancient, fossilized logs litter the landscape. Although it’s one of the longer trails in the park, the wide-open views and otherworldly scenery make it worth the effort. Remember that there is no shade and no water on the trail, so bring plenty to drink, a good bottle of sunscreen, and start the day early to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat.

Boicourt Overlook Trail

This 0.2-mile long, family-friendly trail offers scenic views of the Badlands. Keep your eyes peeled for wild horses that graze along the ridgelines. Pro tip: The overlook near the trailhead is one of the best places to watch the sunset, both for the beautiful views and the proximity to parking so you don’t have to hike back after dark.

Caprock Coulee Trail (North Unit)

This 1.5-mile diverse loop provides a great sampling of all the scenery the park has to offer. It passes through beautiful rock formations, shady cottonwoods and wide cliffs. It’s a favorite for anyone who wants the “full park” experience in just a few miles.

Best places to stay

Camping is the only way to stay within the park boundaries. Cottonwood Campground (South Unit) is a shady, well-loved site that accommodates tents and RVs, and bison often roam it in the early morning. Alternatively, Juniper Campground (North Unit) is a quieter and more rustic option for campers, with great stargazing. And if you’re traveling with horses, the Roundup Horse Camp Group site makes it possible to explore the Badlands on horseback, just as Roosevelt once did.

For those who prefer a real bed after a day of dust and trails, Medora is a great place to stay. There are many lodges, such as the Ferris Inn (open seasonally from May to September) or the Badlands Motel and Rough Riders Hotel, a western-themed property. Closer to Watford City, North Unit, there is also a good line-up of hotels such as the Comfort Inn & Suites or The Inn at Hunter’s Run if convenience is your priority.

places to eat

There is no place to buy food inside the park. Your best bet is to pack a cooler with everything you plan to eat—be sure to bring plenty of water, too. There are picnic tables at various pullouts and campgrounds, so it’s easy to make mealtime part of the adventure. However, Medora has many dining options, including burgers at the Little Missouri Saloon and steak dinners at Theodore’s Dining Room.

“A not-to-be-missed experience is the seasonal Medora Musical Pitchfork Steak Fondue, an over-the-top Western experience where the steak is literally cooked on pitchforks over an open flame,” says Schmidt.