Lorenzo Serafini may have once loved the word quiet, but he has since modified it. “It’s become a transgressive cliché. It’s lost all meaning,” he says. When asked to describe the particular strain of Alberta Ferretti’s romance, he now reaches for relaxed and progressive, terms that feel obvious to him. She advocates privacy of the inner world, discretion on display amid the cacophony of social media. Apparently, keeping your Instagram circle small is actually pretty cool. He clearly has his finger on the pulse.
Serafini is reframing Ferretti’s romantic codes around a vision of femininity that is as safe as it is sexual: a woman who understands the allure of a bit of mystery. For pre-fall, he wrapped the silhouette in double cashmere capes, the way you slip on like a favorite jumper while looking chic, understatedly plush and practical. If easily counted as the new luxury, Serafini seems to have a thoughtful handle on it.
The tailoring approach was equally fluid and soft. His daytime pajamas, which he called “the new version of the suit,” were crafted in crisp wool, and when slipped under a shearling coat shaped with the impermanence of a dress, they were a spontaneous, uncomplicated chic. Her bias-cut dresses, whether in Anon’s satin or DeVory velvet, trace the body in sinuous lines, revealing just enough without ever surrendering the mystery. “They have to feel comfortable going in, not forced,” he noted.
Flattering with many body types, and often finished with stoles or matching fluid caps, these pieces are becoming the signature of the label’s new course. Serafini calls them manta cloth, as in manta rays, after their liquid, flowing motion. Designed to respect the body rather than dominate it, they protect what Seraphini describes as radical discretion. “For me, seduction isn’t about display. It’s about expressing yourself with intention,” she said.
