Astoria, Oregon, Travel Guide

Beautiful and charming: That’s how some locals describe Astoria, Oregon, a remote city that sits where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. The city is known for its ornate Victorian and Queen Anne-style homes, dating from its heyday as a prosperous shipping port, that crowd the hillsides and earn it the nickname “Little San Francisco.” Here, you’re never far from a view of the river and the Washington coastline.

Then there’s the “career” aspect. In its long history as the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, the town has experienced fires, marine disasters, and wild winter storms with high winds and heavy rain. Founded in 1811 by fur traders, Astoria is not only the oldest city in Oregon, but the Pacific Northwest as a whole. Just offshore, the treacherous waters of the Columbia Bar, part of the infamous “Graveyard of the Pacific,” have wrecked hundreds of ships. It’s a small community that draws the world—European explorers, Lewis and Clark, fur traders, Scandinavian and Chinese cannery workers, filmmakers and cinephiles, and now adventurous travelers—with its legends and dramatic setting.

“Astoria is one of those rare coastal cities where history, scenery and character blend perfectly together,” says Carolyn Wobin, director of outdoor engagements for the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Linh DePledge, an Astoria resident and vice president of brand and communications at Vista Hospitality, agrees. “It’s a beautiful and close-knit community,” she says.

Of course, there’s a steady stream of truffle-shuffling enthusiasts visiting the sites from the classic ’80s flick “The Goonies,” but visitors also come here in search of raw nature, coastal scenery, and epic tales of discovery and resilience. The city center’s many vintage shops abound, fishermen toss their fresh catch at seafood markets, and historic waterfront canneries and fish processing plants are now home to charming cafes, restaurants and stores. Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Astoria.

Best hotels and resorts

Bolline Hotel

This former fish processing plant has found new life as a chic, nautical-themed boutique hotel along the Astoria waterfront. Watch the ships sail by from the balconies of the speak-and-span rooms or while breaking a sweat in the pierside barrel sauna. Knot Bar is an elevated watering hole for cocktails made with locally produced spirits and served with Scandinavian light bites.

Canary Pier Hotel and Spa

Sitting at the end of a 600-foot-long pier next to the Astoria-Megler Bridge, the Canary Pier Hotel is an icon of the city’s waterfront with its industrial smoke and fire engine red facade. Its bay position gives every room a view of the river, including the fire-warmed bar. Dinner can be found at the Bridgewater Bistro at the foot of the pier.

Commodore Hotel

The Commodore Hotel is a piece of Astoria history dressed up in hipster clothing—a 1925 building with a contemporary flair. Minimal rooms overlook the city center, and guests have access to a library lounge and bike rentals. Doyle Cafe and Bar runs from Broder Strand in the morning, when it serves coffee and Nordic brunch dishes, and is tucked away for drinks in the evening.

Best things to do

Visit the shipwreck at Fort Stevens State Park.

A former military site that once protected the mouth of the Columbia still withstands the elements at this 4,300-acre state park. Venture inside abandoned batteries, hike along the coastal dunes, camp on the edge of the continent, and visit the Peter Iredell shipwreck.

From the ocean to the movies, explore Astoria’s history.

Since its founding in 1811, Astoria has lived many lives, from cannery and shipping powerhouse to film set. You can relive all of these different journeys at museums and historic sites, such as the stunning Flewell House Museum, and dive into the stories of shipwrecks at the Columbia River Maritime Museum. “The Goonies” Fans will recognize the Oregon Film Museum from the opening scene of the film. At Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, step back in time before Astoria existed, learn about local heritage and visit the Corps of Discovery’s Fort Clatsop campsite.

Head for the hills.

A higher vantage point often offers the best views, so head for the Astoria Column, the 125-foot-tall tower at the top of Coxcomb Hill. Climb up the spiral staircase for the full picture. Another unmissable view can be seen at the top of Pigeon’s Steps, which overlooks the city center.

Unleash your inner explorer on hiking trails.

From woodland walks to heritage trails, Astoria’s range of trails embrace nature and history. Trek along the Cathedral Tree Trail to the Astoria Column (and visit a more than 300-year-old Sitka Spruce along the way), follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark on the Fort to Sea Trail, and stroll along the Columbia Riverwalk on the Riverwalk.

Explore downtown and the riverfront.

Start the day with screeching sea lions and a coffee grill latte at Pier 39, a former cannery dating back to 1875, before it hit town. Visit galleries, browse shops (Astoria Vintage Hardware, Menagerie Co-Op, and Lucy’s Books are recommended), and admire the historic buildings downtown. When you need refreshment, quench your thirst at one of the locally established breweries. There are many, including Boy Beer, Astoria Brewing Company, and Obelisk Beer Company.

Best restaurant

Fort George Brewery

One of Astoria’s original breweries, Fort George Brewery has a public house that occupies an entire city block. Inside, there’s a pub, pizzeria, and taproom, giving diners the choice to pair their IPAs and pale ales with wood-fired ‘zas, poutine, or burgers. Grab a take-home can in the brewery shop, and take a $10 behind-the-scenes tour.

Bowpicker fish and chips

Cult favorite beer-battered fish and chips fly out the walk-up window on this repurposed gillnet boat. There is almost always a line, so be patient, and check online for opening hours as sometimes winds force them to close shop.

The brooder strand

Get a taste of Astoria’s Scandinavian heritage at this coastal outpost from Broder, a regional chain of Nordic eateries with locations in Portland and Hood River. Tick ​​in delicious lefse Potato crepes and bite sizes æbleskiver Opt for pancake balls for breakfast, or more brunch-y fish boards and Swedish meatballs. Top it off with an aquavit brunch cocktail.

South Bay Wild Fish House

This family-run restaurant serves its uber-fresh seafood courtesy of its commercial fishing vessel. Scan the menu for what’s on offer, like dungeness crab and pink shrimp cakes, oyster shooters, and fish tacos.

Daphne

DePledge sees this small farm-to-table outfit nestled between seafood joints and pub-grub eateries. Micro-seasonal menus bring the freshest catch or foraging to the plate alongside Pacific Northwest wines.

Best time to visit

Summer sunshine and warm weather bring out Astoria’s “beautiful” side and give you the perfect weather for hiking, boating and other outdoor activities. But those who want to get a taste of the Oregon Coast’s famously moody weather will want to head to Cape Disappointment in the winter for storm watching, beach walks, and snuggling in fire-warmed hotel rooms.

“Fall and winter are the best times,” says DePledge. “Even when it’s stormy, there’s something relaxing and magical about it.”

But heed Wobin’s packing advice: “Weather can be unpredictable – pack layers, a waterproof jacket, and sturdy shoes.”

The Astoria Warrenton Crab, Sea Food & Wine Fest in April attracts seafood lovers, while the summer Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival celebrates the area’s Nordic heritage. For those not afraid of heights, autumn’s Great Columbia Crossing 10K allows intrepid runners and walkers to cross the Astoria-Magler Bridge on foot.

How to get there

Astoria Regional Airport (AST) does not receive commercial flights, so your best bet is to fly into Portland International Airport (PDX). From there, rent a car and make a scenic, winding drive north along the Columbia River to the Astoria area (usually less than two hours).

Areas to visit

Long Beach Peninsula

On the other side of the Columbia, the Long Beach Peninsula on Washington’s Evergreen Coast is said to have the longest drivable beach in the world at 28 miles. Head to this neck of the woods for wild waves at Cape Disappointment State Park, biscuit sandwiches and coffee from Seaview Biscuit Company, and all-weather highlights at Snowpack Campfield.

Warrenton

Head across Youngs Bay to Astoria’s next-door neighbor, which you’ll need to transit to get to Fort Stevens State Park. The Warrenton Waterfront Trail makes for a great ship-gazing walk, and the town has a handful of charming Victorian homes and historic landmarks.

How to get around

As Wobin suggests: “Leave your car behind.” Astoria’s downtown and riverfront are the perfect walking experience, with the sea breeze in your hair and seagulls wailing as the backing track. Car-free visitors can take the Sunset Empire Transportation District’s NW Connector bus, or ride the historic Astoria Riverfront Trolley from March through November. For exploring further afield, it’s best to have a car, and rental options are available in town.