Chateau D’Issan’s Bordeaux Blend Brilliantly Uses 5 Grape Varieties

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While every emerging wine worth their salt could easily exhaust all the grape appellations allowed in a Bordeaux blend, few people realize that almost every wine made in Bordeaux is best used: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. The majority of Malbec in Bordeaux was killed by frost in the 1950s, and Pete Verdot often ripens too late to make it into the final blend, so many vineyards have been replanted with other varieties over the years. An exception is Chateau d’Essin in Margaux, whose owners bought a plot of Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc in 2019. They have added the grape to their cuvée starting with the 2020 vintage.

Located on the side of the d’Essin estate and adjacent to the vineyards of Chateau Margaux and Chateau Palmer, the 17-acre parcel is planted with three plantations that were not previously part of the chateau’s wines, but included a small amount in 1948. D’Essin’s flagship bottling is a blend of 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 35 percent Merlot (the exact percentage varies slightly from year to year). The previous owners were only interested in selling the family business, and unfortunately for Chateau d’Essen partner and general manager Emmanuel Cruz, both neighboring wineries are also family-owned. Although Palmer’s owners were very interested and the Mantelopoulos family, owners of Chateau Margaux, made a last-minute offer for the grapes, Cruz’s easy-going personality and sense of diplomacy won over the “woman with a strong character” that was the plot.

Cruz’s main target of desire was Pete Verdot, which are actual grapes rather than clones. He had considered ripping the Malbec but had it harvested and renovated for the 2020 vintage and loved it so much that it became an integral part of the blend. Of a blending session and test tasting that included himself, enologist Eric Bosant, technical manager Eric Palin, cellar master Clement di Constanzo, and vineyard manager Olivier Chalaud, Kroes recalled that he became “aggressive” with Bosant, demanding the addition of 1 percent malbec “bullshit.” The consultant then produced two different samples, one with no malbec and one with a small amount, which the team then blind tasted. “Sure, guess what? I preferred the 1 percent Malbec.”

Cruz calls Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec the backbone of the wine, but each variable plays a role. “Cabernet Franc adds elegance and sophistication to the nose,” he says. “Petit Verdot is like a booster. It adds electricity. Malbec, which is more for structure, gives aromatic complexity and a little more tension to the final blend.” Another good analogy is to think of the main ingredient — in this case, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec — as the meat of the wine, with small amounts of additional grapes acting as herbs or spices. While you may not want to eat an entire plate of salt, you certainly feel its absence when it’s missing a grilled steak. Grapes from this new vineyard went into wines made in 2020, 2021, 2022, and 2023. Malbec was not included in the 2023 bottling because the team felt it was throwing the blend off balance, but it returned in 2024.

Chateau d’Essin wines are well represented at Bern Steakhouse in Tampa, where vintages from 1982 to 2020 are offered among nearly 1,300 Bordeaux wines featuring nearly every ranked producer. Senior Sommelier Brad Dixon describes his wine as “classic Margaux – age-capable and aromatic”. While he’s not yet pouring for 2020 guests, as the 1982 and 1995 are both in their primes, he says confidently, “The five-variable capage will age or better than the old vintages.” That’s great news for collectors, many of whom count this third-growth Margaux among their favorite bottles.

San Diego-based collector Brian Babbitt, who began his journey toward the WSET and Master Sommelier certification court in 2022, was introduced to d’Essan at a local wine bar that same year. The sommelier there offered Babette and her best friend the remains of a 2008 d’Essonne that had been opened earlier that night. After “falling in love with it,” he began buying bottles from the chateau and currently has 12 vintages in his cellar. With a modest collection that features heavily in Napa and Bordeaux, Babbitt visited the latter region last August and made Chateau d’Essin his first stop. Of the recent vintages made with five varietals, his favorite is the 2020. “The five-year mark is when I really start to see the young, bright notes fade and the aged notes start to come through on the palate,” he says..

Arnaud Richard, a collector living in Paris, first became aware of Chateau d’Essin in his quest to find a Margaux that was more affordable than a Chateau Margaux or Palmer. He’s been acquiring bottles since the 2012 vintage, buying Magumums only during en primeur to add to his 5,000-bottle cellar. “I like Cabernet Franc, which brings freshness, and I like Petit Verdot and Malbec for their intensity,” he says.

Donald Zalkha, who is based primarily in New York but has lived in Europe, Asia and South America, has enjoyed drinking wine from Margaux from an early age, as his parents owned both Chateau Margaux and Chateau Palmer. A member of both the Commandery de Bordeaux and the Commandery du Bontemps, it’s safe to say he has more than a passing knowledge and interest in wine from Bordeaux, which accounts for 30 percent of his 4,000-bottle collection. Zalkha believes that De Essen really hit his stride at 21^St century, and has purchased bottles from the 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2018, 2018, and 2022 vintages. “The new addition enhances the aroma in the glass,” says Zalkha. “Once again, Emanuele continues to push the envelope to offer better wines.”

Cruz believes the 2022 is the best wine Chateau has made since 2010. “The 2010 is very structured, elegant and classic,” he says. “Blend with five varietals, the 2022 vintage is very ripe with fruit. It is very special, very round, smooth and pleasant to drink even if it is young.” Made with 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot, 2 percent each Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and one percent Petit Verdot, Chateau d’Eisen 2022 is deep ruby ​​in the glass and has aromas of black plum, mocha, candied violet, and earth. It’s full-bodied, with luscious tannins and a touch of black cherry, lavender, vanilla bean and baking spice. It’s drinking beautifully now, but by mid-century feel understated.

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