David Koma has swapped one Hawaiian museum for another. Supergirl-inspired, comic-book colors Pre-Fall Collection, Fall 2026 opens with an image of a swan in a brutal cityscape, feathered wings silhouetted against the exposed gray concrete that Koma saw while walking in London’s Hyde Park. It’s these juxtapositions that inform Koma’s design dichotomy for the woman they dress: a controlled, cool-toned feminine aesthetic.
The concept of ‘femininity’ in contemporary design can lean towards one of two extremes: a diaphanous silhouette that curves around, or some armour-like power shoulders. (Maybe even a pannier or a stirrup, as shown in the last few weeks.) “I wanted to explore a real sense of tension between delicacy and discipline,” Koma said. His woman exudes sensuality through restraint, waiting for the approach, before her swift and sleek wings spread like a warning. Feathered and scalloped collars fanned the clavicles and layers of tulle from the hips, set against an architectural series of structured, long tailoring, plunging skirts, and plunging corsetry. Sexy dresses were tempered with tuxedo-like details, while a knife-wrapped suit could be teased, and outerwear took its place with confidence: a gradient-toned, double-effect shearling coat sat like high hackles on the shoulders. All-around glamor and a welcome sense of humor were as sharp and precise as the sheer cuts of bare sternums and waists, her crystal-encrusted bra and knicker set like a showgirl in a feather-spear set.
“We’re very proud that most of our pieces have the demi-couture stamp,” said Koma, “even in this ready-to-wear format.” The monochrome color palette, in stone white and onyx, draws attention to texture and softness: Mongolian wool wings, 3D embroidered leather floral motifs, matte sequin boucles, brooch-like buttons, and almost translucent lace on silks that recall the first winter.
