How French and American Oak Affect the Flavor of Wine

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It is said that right behind grapes, wood is the second most important ingredient in winemaking, at least for wines that are fermented and aged in oak barrels. Unlike the hundreds of grape varieties that are regularly made into wine, when it comes to oak, there are two main choices: American and French. And while both types of barrels are indeed made from oak trees, the two countries produce distinct species that bring different characteristics to the wine in contact with them.

France is home to two species, Cucurus rubra And Cocos patriawhich has a fine grain, while Cucurus albaor American white oak, is characterized by a broad grain. Native to forests in the French countryside, including Allaires, Limousins, Nevers, and Trovinas, French oak provides its American counterpart with soft clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and coffee flavors and a light hint of vanilla, along with smooth or polished tannins, as well as a silky texture. American oak, which transmits deeper notes of caramel, toffee, coconut, espresso bean, cocoa powder, a more intense level of vanilla, and bolder tannins, is grown in states including Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Wisconsin.

French oak

In Burgundy, members of the Latour family were barrel makers before becoming vintners, and today maison Louis Latour continues that tradition by producing his own barrels. The only winery in Burgundy with its own in-house cooperative, Louis Latour uses half of the 3,500 French oak barrels annually and sells the balance to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers around the world. “The fine grain and subtle character of French oak make it ideal for Maison Louis Latour’s balanced, terroir-driven wines,” says Eleanor Latour, vice president and 12th generation family member. “For our Chardonnays, French oak complements the natural richness and minerality. For our Pinot Noirs, it adds depth and a supple mauveille while preserving delicate fruit and spice. Ultimately, it enhances what nature provides, not overwhelms it.”

French oak isn’t just used to make wine in France. Like many of the country’s grapes now grown around the world, its barrels can be found anywhere the wine is made. We recently checked the technical specifications of more than 100 high-end Napa wines, and of those that mentioned what type of oak they used, nearly every one used barrels sourced from France. At Quintessa, winemaker Rebekah Weinberg says the American oak personality is too brash and bold for this type of wine. Sweet, she explains, refers to more pronounced flavors that can overwhelm the palate Rob Report“These features can be striking in certain ways, but for Quintessa, which is all about beauty and a sense of space, they will feel out of step. Our goal is to let the vineyard speak, and the French oak gives us the need and restraint to do that.”

Italian winemaker Tommaso Cortonsi also employs French oak for his Cortonsi Poggirelli Brunello di Montalcino, using 500-liter (132-gallon) barrels instead of 228-liter (60-gallon) Pieves Bourgognon to support Latour. He says that the single-vineyard Grand Cru site of Courtonsy has a naturally powerful and refined tannin structure and “French oak tones help to accentuate the profile, bringing out the finesse and elegance of Poggirelli.” He prefers large barrels because of the two-year aging requirement for Brunello. “The large volume allows for a gentle exchange between the wine and the wood, maintaining balance and freshness.”

American oak

Away from the US, American oak barrels are a staple in many Australian wineries, particularly those specializing in Shiraz. “The generous fruit weight and structure of Shiraz can easily absorb 100 percent new American oak, which balances rather than dominates,” says Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago. Although many of the wines made at Penfolds use French oak, its flagship Grange has been matured in New American oak hogsheads—300 liter (79 gallon) barrels—since it was launched in 1951. “It offers distinctive characters that blend seamlessly with the ripe, dark fruit profile of South Australian Shiraz.”

Closer to home, one of California’s most famous wineries, Ridge Vineyards, builds on the commitment to American oak previously championed by original head winemaker Paul Draper. Current head winemaker John Olney explains that when Ridge began in the 1960s, very few producers were aging their wines in standard 225 liter barrels. “Most of the wine was stored in large upright wooden tanks made from redwood,” he says. While many of Draper’s contemporaries began sourcing French barrels, fearing that American oak might be too aggressive, “Paul felt strongly that using French oak with American Cabernet could leave a wine resembling Bordeaux.” “The belief that the Montebello American oak is about its age has stabilized the position of the American oak on the ridge.” A sustainability leader, Ridge’s use of American oak barrels also limits its transportation-based carbon footprint.

Why choose?

Because of the different characteristics imparted by the two types of oak, many winemakers around the world mature their wines in a combination of French and American barrels. Rioja winery Moga ages its Prado Ennea Gran Reserva in 80 percent French oak and 20 percent American from northern New York and Ohio. While many modern Rioja producers have historically used only American oak, winemaker and technical director Isaac Moga-Palcon says the oak he buys from central France and the Loire Valley “provides a finesse and elegance that no other oak in the world offers.” With an on-site cooperage, Moga makes its own French oak barrels and fully shapes its American barrels. “We believe the granary will be more rustic when aged 100 percent American oak, and we’ll lose some of the complexity of today,” Moga explained.

“The choice of oak depends entirely on the desired stylistic outcome,” says Gago. “Oak selection is a winemaking tool that enables maximum stylistic separation and character.” Both have their place in the world of winemaking, and whether you prefer the elegance of France or the bold assertion of American, a well-elevated wine is always a treat for the senses.

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