The Most Underrated Super Tuscan Wine Is Made by a Piedmontese Master

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Famed Italian vintner Angelo Gaja’s fifth-generation family business has three grown children involved in every aspect, but his favorite child may be the Bagheri estate Camarcanda, purchased in 1996. “Kamarkanda, with his son, was his son, when he was in the middle of his midlife crisis, and it was like a rebirth, and it was like a rebirth, and it was. Siblings Giovanni and Gaia to continue the family tradition. Rossana readily admits that the three grew up “seeing Kamarkanda as the fourth brother we have to take care of.”

Angelo’s great-grandfather founded Piedmontese Winery in 1859, and after Angelo joined the winery in 1961, he began the transition from distribution to distribution—which increased Gaja’s worldwide prominence. After decades of success the focus shifted to Nebbiolo in its Barolos and Barbarescos, and in 1994, the acquisition of Pio Santa Risotto in Montalcino brought the great Sangiovese into the fold. Angelo then turned his sights to Bulgari, which was just beginning to gain acclaim as the center of the Super Tuscan movement. At a time when the region boasted about 10 wineries, he became curious about creating bottles using international varietal blends. He fought to a certain extent but ran into a roadblock. “The owners were reluctant to sell,” Angelo says. “I had to meet with them several times before I completed the purchase.” Multiple is an understatement, he reports 18 meetings to hammer out a deal. Angelo graciously named the estate Camarcanda, which translates to “house of endless negotiations” in the Piedmontese dialect, and got to work. He made Cabernet in 1997. Began planting Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and other varieties on the estate, and then began construction on an underground gravity-flow winery completed in 2002. Today, Kimarkanda has a total of 300 acres, with over 170 additional parcels on the estate in Bolgheri.

While other Super Tuscan wines are practically household names among collectors, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the flagship blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Camarque (without any astrophy), flies under the radar. “Gaja has such a reputation for great barbaresco and Barolo, but I still find that many consumers don’t realize that the Gaja family has other ventures outside of Paramonte,” says Logan Griffin, director of food and beverage at Walland’s Three Sisters, “along with Sasikia and Ornella at Glabri Mountain. Ca’marcanda and other specialties in the area have kept a somewhat lower profile. This low profile is partly intentional, Angelo says, after arriving there as a guest, he and his family have shown a reference to the local producers who arrived before them.

“‘Less is more’ is a very Piedmontese concept, including the concept of a low-profile wine with secret and reserved characteristics,” says Rossana. And it’s not wine that trades under the famous Gaja name. Gaia says that several years ago, the family made a “risky move”, standing at the bottom of the label before. “It is commercially damaging, but it is honest and accurate to identify Kimarkanda, which is ready to go beyond Gaza.” They wanted the Kamarkanda name to stand on its own, but the siblings still travel the world to introduce current releases and older vintages to both professionals and consumers.

On one of these trips, Gaia met Andrew Fattorini, a wine collector based in Verona, Italy. He currently has around 48 bottles in five vintages out of 3,000 in his cellar, including the likes of Bondi Santi, Bertani, Ornella, Sollia and Zenato. “At dinner in Milan, he introduced me to all his wines,” he says. Includes Sauvignon, and a younger brother made with Pete Verdot.

While Camarcanda was originally Merlot-based, over time it evolved into the current blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Gaia explains that Merlot vineyards planted nearly 30 years ago no longer offer the consistency needed to produce their top-end wines. “Merlot is a very difficult variety to bring out full maturity while retaining grace and drinkability without being overly alcoholic.” “It took time to understand how to create our interpretation of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and how to do so while fully understanding and respecting the Bulgari identity.”

Ca’marcanda 2022 Ca’marcanda Bulgari Dope is a blend of 80 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 20 percent Cabernet Franc that was aged in oak barrels for 18 months and then aged in concrete for an additional six months before blending. A lovely nose of raspberry, cedarwood, and lavender prepares the palate for a hint of ripe summer cherry, dried thyme, and eucalyptus wrapped in silky smooth tannins. Beautifully structured, it offers a full mouthfeel and refreshing acidity that leads into a slightly salty finish. With just one sip, it’s easy to understand why Kimarkanda is Angelo’s favorite child.

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