Denise Dupri’s love affair with France began when her husband, former Ben Capital managing director Mark Nunley, proposed in the Burgundy region in 1989. “Sometimes a place grabs you,” she says. “We came back again and again.” They must have really loved it. Visiting Burgundy has long faced challenges in other wine-producing regions: a lack of luxury accommodation and not-to-be-disturbed signs that, metaphorically, want to dig through the doors of high-end wineries.
With her latest project, Château de la Coumarin, in Pommard, she hopes to overcome both obstacles. Dupree, whose family ran the resort stateside and who managed hospitality at Harvard, does not own the hotel. Indeed, he’s already tested the template he’s continuing here: seven years ago, his reboot of the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa was a seismic addition to Epernay’s sleepy scene. At the same time, he acquired this site in Burgundy, a vineyard anchored by a 12th-century castle that had been modified several times. Pommard’s long legacy and unique terroir have captivated fans from Victor Hugo to King Louis XV.
Inside one of the suites.
John Etheimeritis
“Coumarin has an incredible history, as it was one of Thomas Jefferson’s favorite wines,” says Dupree. “Knowing our former ambassador to France fell in love with this place? He was onto something.” The best bottles produced by the new winemaking team that he and Nunnally put together will be labeled with the TJ Mark in his honor.
The renovation and expansion of the Higgledy Piggledy Building—a monumental project that will finally welcome guests in February. The work even included the opening of a basement beneath the medieval foundations with monitors on each wall to detect shifts in the stone during excavation. Historically, the only truly luxurious way to discover Burgundy was at a cask – Belmond does several here – but Dupri wanted to offer a wider choice. Accordingly, each of the structure’s 37 rooms has a unique design and its own connection to the estate’s history. In the medieval tower, there is the Rotunda Suite, which overlooks the 14th-century rafters, as well as the Mottled Suite, named after a Portuguese woman whose life was saved by the knight Jean de Pommard. She got this palace as a thank you from her husband.
The 37 guest rooms at Château de la Coumarin were designed with reference to the history of the building, which dates back to the 12th century.
John Etheimeritis
Dupri and his team also hope to open the doors to some of the more exclusive wineries here, but you can tap Bourgogne Gold Tour’s controversial, passionate LeBoult, who has been the go-to guide for more than 25 years. He drives clients around and recommends a two-day itinerary: one to taste Pinot Noir in the Côte de Nuits and another in the Côte de Beaune to try both Chardonnay and more Pinot Noir.
The hotel’s focus on winemaking is highlighted by the location of its patio, right next to the main building. One of its two restaurants will have windows looking directly into the production facility. But to get a deeper sense of the land, book the four-bedroom Villa des Wiggins, the ultimate perch for any avid Burgundy drinker. A newly constructed building adjacent to the château, uniquely immersed in the terroir. “You can open the window and touch the grapes,” says Dupree. “You want to get up in the middle of the night and check on them.” From about $940
Top left: An aerial view of Burgundy, France, which until recently has lacked luxury accommodation. The heart of the historic walled city of Beven in the heart of the wine-making region.
The authors
Mark Ellwood
